Anonymous asked: Hello Somar thx for the answer about single cuff damage. I completely fall in love of my XX-005, i really love the slubby denim. i will pick another denim the next month maybe a Samouraï i'm not sure. Thank a lot Somar you give me the denim Virus and i love that .
Again, thank you very much for your kindness!! Denim virus, haven’t heard that before haha :D.
I really like raw denim a lot and it’s nice to hear it reaches people like you. I’m always happy to help and that goes for everybody that reads this! :)
Anonymous asked: Hello Somar. Thanks a lot for your blog. I just wear my first rax denim ( Pure Blue Japan xx-005 ) since 2 day and i single cuff the jeans like for 2.5 cm. After only two days I've noticed that the cuffs has created stress points that are damaging the denim. Do you think sinngle cuffs is not a good idea and this is damaging the denim very fast ? Sorry for my poor English i try my best.
Hey man, thanks I appreciate it. Don’t wory about your English. I understood everything ;).
That is one hell of a first raw denim to start with. Good choice mate! :) I don’t think you should worry about cuffing them. Cuffing inevitably leads to stress points in the cuffs. If it is a single or a double cuff, it doesn’t matter and it will happen to every raw jeans.
When they rip, you simply repair them.
Check out this repair, it was done by Denim Therapy:
(source: Denim Therapy)
stolenregret asked: Hey man; first thanks for sharing your experiences! I'm about to buys my first pair of raw jeans and you really did help. I like the style and stuff this give you and all the out-of-way treatment that seem really worthy trying! And since I am quite new to the subject I'd like to ask you what you think about Levi's. I mean, I'm not in the USA to find all that trademarks you guys do, and Levi's is actually easier to find here, and if you don't mind I'll ask you further questions. TY again!
Hey man, thank you very much. I appreciate your kind words!
If you’re starting of with a Levi’s (Shrink-To-Fit I presume?) than you’re starting with a classic! Good choice IMO.
A little bit of background info about how raw denim came to be: Levi Strauss, together with Jacob Davis, made the first riveted jeans using strong selvedge denim and rivets. When they got popular in time and the demand kept growing and growing, the company decided to make the jeans in a cheaper and more efficient manner. Bigger and faster looms, no more selvedge and no more top quality and durable denim. Levi’s didn’t produce the same quality 501 jeans as they once started to.
Because Levi’s stoped making them, a few years later, a group of 5 japanese men known as the Osaka 5 decided to reproduce their beloved Levi’s 501. They wanted to use vintage looms to recreate the same 501 as it was back in the days… (If you fully want to understand, you must read this article. Really, you MUST!). From there, the reproduction game started and now al lot of those Japanese brands are really popular!
To summarize briefly: Raw denim got out of the scene for a long time, because Levi’s decided to produce cheaper and in masses. The Osaka 5 brought it back and they are the reason a lot of us are wearing raw denim today! Levi’s found out and realised they made a mistake by dropping the production of quality selvedge denim, then quickly started to make raw selvedge denim again. After that they sued al the Japanese repro brands for using the Levi’s arcs, red tabs and leather patches that looked a lot like theirs.
Right now, Levi’s is giving it al they got to be popular again in the raw denim scene but their denim just doesn’t compare to what the Japanese are able to create these days. Also, what Levi’s did to the raw denim scene was a little bit of a backstab. Still, I would love to have a pair of Levi’s STF because they’re classics and they can fade pretty nicely. :P
Anonymous asked: Hello Somar, great blog i learn a lot of thing. I would like to know what you use as a product for washing your denim? Some Woolite for dark color denim or a Specific product? Thank you again for this amazing blog.
sloppyaf asked: Hey man what do you think of flatheads?
THE FLAT HEAD
Anonymous asked: Awesome work on the LHT. How did you size on them and how much did the main areas stretch? Thanks!
Hey man, thanks a lot :)
To sum it up:
- I went 1 size up to 34 (usually I’m a 33). to make the thighs fit.
- The stretch in the waist is insane —> 2 inches!
- Stretch in the thighs is medium. They will stretch a bit, not much.
What I should have done was; Get the weird guy (tapered fit) and in one zise down, that would be size 32.
Anonymous asked: Dear Somar, what your opinion about Pure Blue Japan denim ? Do you think it's comparable too brand like Momotaro, Samuraï etc ?
IMO PBJ belongs to the top segment of denim brands. PBJ is known for their slubby denim. They create everything on their own and from what I have read the quality is top notch. I would love to own a pair, the XX-007 to be precise :)
Thanks for that answer man! hahaa. I guess it’s really to each his own when it comes to denim.
Exactly!! To each his own :)
rv-x asked: Ref to the Gustin answer! What do you think makes the premium denim brands better than Gustin? Just curious.
First I want to make clear that I didn’t say other brands are BETTER. I quote: ‘’But as you find out more about raw denim, you’ll see that there is a huge difference between Gustin and other brands like Fullcount, Momotaro, …..’’
Also a little bit of explaining: Words like ‘better, ‘worse’ or ‘quality’ are relative. The words exist, but the meaning is different for every single person. In time we created a few guidelines because it seemed that a lot of people agreed about the same definition for a lot of words. Denimheads did the same thing. Quality has a lot to do with what you are looking for. In a denimheads dictionary, it has to do with feeling and sometimes it is even defined by it. If a product or its components are vintage, vintage made or they have a great history, it will be loved more and it will be given the label ‘’Quality Product’’ more often. (This doen’t mean that products like Gustin jeans can’t get that label, even if they’re new.) To me, quality has a lot to do with background story, origin of the different components, number of years the company is operating and the goal they have in mind. Also, durability, how well are they put together, looks and a lot of other things.
Now some real explaining: Sooo, these premium denim brands (most of them being Japanese) are trying to create the perfect denim from the most perfect cotton and then create a perfect fit, with all their heart and soul. A lot of them even create their own denim by weaving a dozen different styles until they’ve found that perfect one. The rivets have to be in a certain way and the same goes for the leather patch, the stitching and all the other details. Some of these brands go crazy while striving for perfection, and money does NOT play a role… To me that if what I am looking for, THAT is quality.
Back to answering you question: I don’t know if these premium denim brands are ‘better’ than GUSTIN, but they have a richer history. I like brands that have a background story . Also the fact that some of them are obsessed by creating the perfect denim, I just believe them!! I would still love to try a pair of GUSTIN to see what they are about. From what I have read so far, I think they produce very well crafted products.
As you can see my answer can only be, and it also very much is, subjective!
P.S. Sorry for making this answer so long (I even deleted a lot haha :P). I tried to explain without summing up a list with all the differences.
hotjeans4me asked: Hello from New York, USA. I like what i see in your blog, and consider you somewhat of an expert on the raw denim and fade subject already:) Have you any thoughts on a brand called "Gustin" I stumbled upon them on the internet, and am intrigued on what I saw and read. Your thoughts are welcome here. Thank You.
Thank you for the kind words! :)
In my opinion Gustin is a perfect ‘raw-denim-starters’ brand. They are low priced and they have nice fading abilities. Gustin managed to create a nice and well crafted pair of jeans, which they make in two fits.
But as you find out more about raw denim, you’ll see that there is a huge difference between Gustin and other brands like Fullcount, Momotaro, The Flat Head, Iron Heart, Samurai, etc. To a denimhead like me, these brands are the real deal. If I had the money, I would buy one pair of every one of these brand.