UES 3 months update

UES 2 month update

Love this belt!

It’s made in Italy and I bought it when I was in Rome last year


Anonymous asked: Hello Somar thx for the answer about single cuff damage. I completely fall in love of my XX-005, i really love the slubby denim. i will pick another denim the next month maybe a Samouraï i'm not sure. Thank a lot Somar you give me the denim Virus and i love that .

Again, thank you very much for your kindness!! Denim virus, haven’t heard that before haha :D.

I really like raw denim a lot and it’s nice to hear it reaches people like you. I’m always happy to help and that goes for everybody that reads this! :)


Anonymous asked: Hello Somar. Thanks a lot for your blog. I just wear my first rax denim ( Pure Blue Japan xx-005 ) since 2 day and i single cuff the jeans like for 2.5 cm. After only two days I've noticed that the cuffs has created stress points that are damaging the denim. Do you think sinngle cuffs is not a good idea and this is damaging the denim very fast ? Sorry for my poor English i try my best.

Hey man, thanks I appreciate it. Don’t wory about your English. I understood everything ;).

That is one hell of a first raw denim to start with. Good choice mate! :) I don’t think you should worry about cuffing them. Cuffing inevitably leads to stress points in the cuffs. If it is a single or a double cuff, it doesn’t matter and it will happen to every raw jeans.

When they rip, you simply repair them.

Check out this repair, it was done by Denim Therapy:



(source: Denim Therapy)

Update on the UES. Almost 2 months in now. I will make better pics this weekend, for now it’s these 2.


stolenregret asked: Hey man; first thanks for sharing your experiences! I'm about to buys my first pair of raw jeans and you really did help. I like the style and stuff this give you and all the out-of-way treatment that seem really worthy trying! And since I am quite new to the subject I'd like to ask you what you think about Levi's. I mean, I'm not in the USA to find all that trademarks you guys do, and Levi's is actually easier to find here, and if you don't mind I'll ask you further questions. TY again!

Hey man, thank you very much. I appreciate your kind words!

If you’re starting of with a Levi’s (Shrink-To-Fit I presume?) than you’re starting with a classic! Good choice IMO.

A little bit of background info about how raw denim came to be: Levi Strauss, together with Jacob Davis, made the first riveted jeans using strong selvedge denim and rivets. When they got popular in time and the demand kept growing and growing, the company decided to make the jeans in a cheaper and more efficient manner. Bigger and faster looms, no more selvedge and no more top quality and durable denim. Levi’s didn’t produce the same quality 501 jeans as they once started to.

Because Levi’s stoped making them, a few years later, a group of 5 japanese men known as the Osaka 5 decided to reproduce their beloved Levi’s 501. They wanted to use vintage looms to recreate the same 501 as it was back in the days… (If you fully want to understand, you must read this article. Really, you MUST!). From there, the reproduction game started and now al lot of those Japanese brands are really popular!

To summarize briefly: Raw denim got out of the scene for a long time, because Levi’s decided to produce cheaper and in masses. The Osaka 5 brought it back and they are the reason a lot of us are wearing raw denim today! Levi’s found out and realised they made a mistake by dropping the production of quality selvedge denim, then quickly started to make raw selvedge denim again. After that they sued al the Japanese repro brands for using the Levi’s arcs, red tabs and leather patches that looked a lot like theirs.

Right now, Levi’s is giving it al they got to be popular again in the raw denim scene but their denim just doesn’t compare to what the Japanese are able to create these days. Also, what Levi’s did to the raw denim scene was a little bit of a backstab. Still, I would love to have a pair of Levi’s STF because they’re classics and they can fade pretty nicely. :P


Anonymous asked: Hello Somar, great blog i learn a lot of thing. I would like to know what you use as a product for washing your denim? Some Woolite for dark color denim or a Specific product? Thank you again for this amazing blog.

Hi there! Thank you very much for the kind words :). 
To be honest I don’t realy pay much attention which detergent I use for washing my jeans. I use, whatever I can find lying around the washing machine. Often it is powder for ‘all colours laundry’ and sometimes it is liquid detergent for black clothes only. I don’t pay much attention to the brand either: Woolite, Ariel, Ajax, Omo, Sunil, etc… There might be little differences, but IMO they all do the same. You won’t see it back in your fades. 
There is only little rule: my wife told me once never to use too much detergent, because that could be bad for the fibers of your clothes! So I use around one tablespoon of detergent (either powder or liquid).
Hope this helps!?

No lazy sunday for me!

Was helping my dad at work and my jeans got realy dusty.


sloppyaf asked: Hey man what do you think of flatheads?


The Flat Head is best known for its jeans, but its superbly designed and great fitting shirts are prized possessions in discerning wardrobes too. Their Pioneer Series flagship denim has won many awards for its amazing “Tate-Ochi” fading properties; the much prized vertical line fades associated with vintage denim. The founder of The Flat Head, Masayoshi Kobayashi, has an impressive collection of vintage shuttle looms sourced from around the world which are used to create his denims. His rare loopwheeler machines use a long fibre cotton making the construction of his t-shirts and hoodies robust yet strikingly soft. All Flat Head clothing is made in one of seven small factories in Okayama known as “houses”, where the attention to detail is legendary. Their motto, which they clearly live and breathe, is “we are particular about our clothes”. In spite of Kobayashi-san’s love of all things vintage, he brings a modern edge to his designs which will stand the test of time. The mysterious production techniques and fine details make this one of the coolest brands out there.(SOURCE)
And here is another article that coveres TFH. Definitely worth reading!!
Conclusion: The Flat Head rocksss!! :)

Anonymous asked: Awesome work on the LHT. How did you size on them and how much did the main areas stretch? Thanks!

Hey man, thanks a lot :)

You’ll find an answer here, here and (a little bit) here

To sum it up:
- I went 1 size up to 34 (usually I’m a 33). to make the thighs fit.
- The stretch in the waist is insane —> 2 inches!
- Stretch in the thighs is medium. They will stretch a bit, not much.

What I should have done was; Get the weird guy (tapered fit) and in one zise down, that would be size 32.


Anonymous asked: Dear Somar, what your opinion about Pure Blue Japan denim ? Do you think it's comparable too brand like Momotaro, Samuraï etc ?

IMO PBJ belongs to the top segment of denim brands. PBJ is known for their slubby denim. They create everything on their own and from what I have read the quality is top notch. I would love to own a pair, the XX-007 to be precise :)

After their first wash!

After their first wash!

I started using my Instagram and I (try to) strictly use it for denim only! :)
You can follow  ’@fadeproject’. Link HERE

I started using my Instagram and I (try to) strictly use it for denim only! :)

You can follow  ’@fadeproject’. Link HERE

Thanks for that answer man! hahaa. I guess it’s really to each his own when it comes to denim.

Exactly!! To each his own :)